Discovering Sumba’s Culinary Scene: Best Eats and Where to Stay
Sumba, the rugged and enchanting island in eastern Indonesia, is known for its stunning savannahs, traditional villages, pristine beaches, and deep-rooted culture. While it’s not as globally known for its cuisine as Bali or Java, Sumba offers an authentic and unique culinary experience — one that blends local ingredients, tribal traditions, and modern adaptations. For tourists, especially those accustomed to Western dining, the island now has a growing number of comfortable and even luxurious spots to eat and stay, making it easier to explore this untamed paradise without giving up comfort.
Traditional Sumbanese Cuisine
The heart of Sumba’s culinary tradition lies in its simplicity and connection to the land. Meals are often centered around fresh seafood, free-range pork or chicken, cassava, sweet potatoes, corn, and locally grown vegetables. Rice — though common now — was traditionally replaced by maize or tubers, especially in inland areas.
One of the must-try dishes is Ikan Bakar (grilled fish), often prepared using fresh catch from the nearby sea, marinated with local spices and grilled over coconut husks. Another popular dish is Se’i (smoked meat), a method brought from neighboring Timor but now widely enjoyed in Sumba. Paku-pakuan, or fern vegetables, are often sautéed with garlic and chili for a light side dish.
Also unique is Kambing Bambu – goat meat cooked inside bamboo tubes over an open fire, giving it a tender, smoky aroma. Meals are typically communal, especially in traditional villages, and it’s not uncommon to be invited for a shared feast during a local ceremony.
Best Places to Eat for Western Tourists
While warungs (local eateries) offer authentic flavors, many tourists seek more familiar dishes or hygienic standards when traveling. Here are some of the best places across the island where Western travelers can dine comfortably:
1. Mario Hotel & Café (Tambolaka – Southwest Sumba)
Set right on the beach, Mario’s is a favorite among travelers for its scenic sunset views and Western-style menu. They serve hearty breakfasts, fresh seafood, pastas, and steaks — all with a relaxed beach vibe. Their grilled lobster and avocado salad are standouts.
2. Rua Beach Club (Rua – West Sumba)
Part of the Lelewatu Resort complex, this upscale beach club offers a mix of Indonesian and Western dishes, ideal for a sunset dinner. Think wood-fired pizzas, grilled chicken wraps, smoothies, and well-curated cocktails.
3. Maringi Eco Resort (Waingapu – East Sumba)
Run by the Sumba Hospitality Foundation, Maringi offers a unique eco-luxury experience. Their restaurant is a gem — not only for its organic, farm-to-table meals but also for the social impact of supporting local students. Their Western fusion dishes like homemade pasta, herb-roasted chicken, and Sumbanese-style tapas are creatively plated and delicious.
4. Warung D’Sumba (Waingapu)
A casual spot with both local and Western favorites, this warung caters to tourists who want clean, tasty meals without breaking the bank. Try their nasi goreng, burgers, and banana pancakes.
Where to Stay in Sumba
Sumba now offers a wide range of accommodations — from ultra-luxury resorts to eco-lodges and affordable guesthouses.
1. Nihi Sumba (Southwest Coast)
Often ranked among the world’s best resorts, Nihi Sumba is an all-inclusive haven offering private villas, butler service, yoga, spa treatments, and gourmet dining. It’s ideal for those seeking barefoot luxury and ultimate privacy. Dining here is world-class and changes daily, blending Western gourmet with local flavors.
2. Alamayah Boutique Retreat Hotel (Kerewe, West Sumba)
A wellness-focused retreat perfect for digital detox or healing journeys. Alamayah’s in-house chef prepares plant-based, organic meals with high Western standards — making it a favorite for vegans and vegetarians.
3. Sumba Adventure Resort (East Sumba)
Ideal for surfers, adventurers, and budget-conscious travelers, this rustic-chic resort sits on a quiet beach near Waingapu. It offers both local and Western meals, and its casual vibe is great for mingling with fellow travelers.
4. Lelewatu Resort (West Sumba)
Perched on a cliff with panoramic ocean views, Lelewatu is a 5-star option featuring luxury villas, spa, and fine dining. It combines traditional Sumbanese aesthetics with modern elegance.
Final Thoughts
Sumba’s culinary journey is raw, untamed, and slowly blossoming to meet global standards. While traditional food may be simple, it is rich in story and flavor. For Western tourists, the rise of boutique resorts and international-standard eateries means you can enjoy the best of both worlds: authentic cultural immersion and the comfort of familiar, well-prepared meals. Whether you’re seeking surf, solitude, or just a good steak after a day of exploring — Sumba is ready to serve.
