Bali’s Elusive Arak: Paving the Way for Premium Spirits
For many visitors to Bali, the mention of “arak”—a clear spirit typically distilled from rice or coconut in local settings—often conjures unsettling tales. These narratives frequently recount instances of severe illness, and even fatalities, linked to unscrupulous bars substituting arak for legitimate branded spirits in cocktails. However, a dedicated arak producer named Alisjahbana Haliman is actively working to transform this negative perception. His vision involves elevating arak to the esteemed status of high-end whiskey, vodka, or gin.
Karsuotju: A Fusion of Global Distillation Techniques
Alisjahbana’s brand, christened Karsuotju, distinguishes itself through its unique production methodology. It’s crafted from sweet potatoes using a “burned liquor” distillation technique, a process adapted from the makers of “shochu,” a traditional Japanese spirit. Supplementing this, the brand incorporates the barrel-ageing method, widely recognized and popularized by French spirits. Alisjahbana shared his inspiration, stating, “For many years, my travels to vineyards in renowned regions like Napa and Bordeaux ignited a desire to create a truly exceptional spirit indigenous to our land.”
He further elaborated on the rationale behind focusing on arak: “Indonesia’s tropical climate isn’t conducive to growing wine grapes suitable for producing quality wine. However, we possess a rich and enduring tradition of arak distillation. This historical foundation is precisely how Karsuotju came into being.” The production of Karsuotju takes place at an artisanal, boutique distillery nestled in the foothills of Mount Batukaru, Bali’s second-highest peak.
Mount Batukaru: A Serene Escape and Culinary Hub
Mount Batukaru is characterized by its cooler climate and is a popular destination for trekking enthusiasts. It’s also known for its picturesque coffee plantations and a scattering of charming, rustic eco-lodges and cafes. These establishments offer a tranquil respite from the vibrant energy of Bali’s coastal areas. The distillery is part of the larger Talasi Estate, which encompasses a small restaurant and a cellar door. Here, guests can delve into the world of premium arak, learning about its creation and enjoying a tasting experience.
Reaching Talasi Estate from Canggu, Bali’s bustling surf and hipster epicenter on the west coast, typically requires about an hour’s journey by car or motorbike. The initial segment of this trip navigates through urban development before transitioning onto a winding country road that ascends into the higher elevations of Tabanan, a regency situated in west Bali. The route itself is a scenic marvel, passing through dense bamboo forests, lush rainforests, villages that seem untouched by time, and terraced rice paddies that stretch across the landscape like the undulating keys of a vast green piano. Talasi Estate is positioned at an elevation of 750 meters above sea level, located near the lowest point of this highland road before it begins its descent back towards the coast.
Unexpected Changes and Delightful Discoveries at Talasi Estate
During my visit, I had initially hoped to participate in a behind-the-scenes tour detailing the crafting of Karsuotju. However, due to ongoing renovations at the distillery, these tours were temporarily unavailable. Furthermore, intense rainfall the morning prior to my arrival meant that Talasi’s scheduled two-hour guided trek through the rainforests had also been postponed. Luckily, the third and final tour option—a farm-to-table experience showcasing Talasi’s diverse product range, complete with an arak tasting—remained on the itinerary.
Karsuotju is offered in two distinct varieties: Karu 18 (referring to its 18 percent alcohol content), which to my palate bore a resemblance to Japanese sake; and Karu 38, which evoked the complexity of a whiskey and cognac blend. I sampled a shot of each and also had the opportunity to taste ten different varieties of honey. My culinary journey continued with cinnamon treacle-coated cashew nuts, a shot of potent Batukaru espresso, and a rich hot chocolate crafted from 70 percent cacao – all ingredients cultivated on the fertile slopes of Mount Batukaru. Lunch was served in an enchanting stilted wooden restaurant, subtly concealed amidst the trees. The meal featured a beautifully presented nasi campur, a traditional mixed rice dish, accompanied by succulent satay sticks and hearty beef bone and potato broths, all for under $10.
More Than Just a Drink: The Batukaru Experience
In essence, the drive and the breathtaking scenery encountered on the way to Batukaru are compelling reasons in themselves for a visit. The arak tasting and the exquisite nasi campur simply served as an unexpected and delightful bonus to an already enriching experience.
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